SEWING SCHOOL BASICS
STEP-BY-STEP COURSE FOR FIRST TIME STITCHERS.
Basting
Basting stitches are temporary long running stitches, made by machine or hand, that hold fabric together before the final permanent stitching.Bias
Bias refers to the diagonal of the fabric; a cut that’s made diagonally across the crosswise and lengthwise grain of the fabric.Clipping
When you clip fabric, you make snips in the seam allowance, up to but not through the stitching, to allow the fabric to open around curves or to lay flat.Cross grain
The line of fabric perpendicular to the selvage edge of the fabric.Dart
A dart is a folded wedge of fabric used to shape a garment, particularly over curves.Edge stitch
A line of stitching very close to a seam line or garment edge.Facing
A fabric piece used to create a finished edge on a garment, mirroring the edge it is sewn to and creating a enclosed edge. Typically used for necklines, edges with closures, or armholes.French seam
A French seam is a finished seam in which the seam is initially stitched with wrong sides together, then flipped inside and stitched right sides together. This encloses the seam allowance, creating a clean finish on the inside of the garment.Gathering
The process of taking up a length of fabric in order to seam it to a shorter piece of fabric.Grading
After a seam is stitched, the two layers are trimmed to a different width in order to prevent a ridge showing on the outside of the garment seam. A second definition of Grading is the process of converting a pattern size to a larger or smaller size.Grain
Grain describes the direction of the warp and the weft in a woven fabric. The threads in a woven fabric are set up on a loom in a lengthwise and crosswise orientation. The lengthwise grain is used to lay out the garment pattern pieces. The crosswise grain runs from one selvage edge to the other.
Grain line
The imaginary line running lengthwise on the fabric, always parallel to the selvage edge. The grain line is marked on pattern pieces with a straight line, usually with arrows at either end, and marked as “grain line” or “straight grain.”Stay stitch
A line of machine stitches on or near the seamline, stitched on a single layer of fabric, used to stabilize a cut edge.Stitch length
The length of a single stitch, which affects the amount of fabric moved through the machine per stitch. Fewer stitches per inch means each stitch is longer, up to and including basting stitches.Topstitch
Topstitching is a row of stitches seen on the outside of a garment. They can be decorative and also add strength and wearing ability to an item.I think is few terms should get you going....
Here’s my list of essential sewing tools:
Fabric shears: Buy good ones and take care of them (that means never ever cutting paper or anything other than fabric with them; if you have to lock them up to keep your spouse or kids from using them to open packages, then so be it). Have them sharpened every so often. Sharp tools are the key to enjoyable sewing. And for my fellow left-handed sewists: don’t even think about not using left-handed or ambidextrous scissors. It’s not worth it!
Rotary cutter, clear plastic ruler and self-healing cutting mat: A rotary cutter is much easier to cut out patterns with than scissors. This is something else you want to keep sharp, but you can easily replace the rotary blades yourself. A self-healing cutting mat is a must if you’re using a rotary cutter, otherwise you’ll destroy your work surface. And a clear plastic ruler is extremely helpful you’re trying to straighten up your fabric’s edges.
Small craft scissors: I always keep a pair of small craft scissors nearby when I am sewing. I find them much easier to use when clipping threads. If you’re careful, they can double as a seam-ripper when you’ve misplaced yours (don’t ask me how I know this).
Seam Ripper: The sewist’s best friend. Sooner or later, you will make a mistake and need this little guy. You might want to have more than one on hand. Because there’s nothing more frustrating than trucking along on a project only to make a mistake and then not being able to find your seam ripper.
Pins and a pincushion: If you’re working with knits, be sure you have ballpoint needles on hand. It’s often easier to stick pins back into a pincushion than some type of box (plus, who can resist an iconic red tomato pin cushion?).
Sewing machine needles: You’ll need extras for your machine since they will gradually become dull with use (remember, sharp is best!), and you’ll want to swap out your needles for various fabric weights.
Hand sewing needles: Most sewing projects will require a little bit of hand finishing, like sewing on a button.
Measuring tape: You’ll need a soft one for getting accurate body measurements.
Water soluble pen and/or tailor’s chalk: I prefer a water soluble pen but they sometimes don’t show up as well on dark coloured fabric. Have both on hand just to be safe!
Seam gauge: Turning up a hem ¾” is much, much easier with a seam gauge. It also doubles as a ruler when you need to measure out smaller amounts.
Now you know what to get lets get to business!
Today we will be making a simple skirt and I'm sure this could help.
~You materials are ready yh? For the simple skirt, you need a pair your scissors, measuring tape, a ruler, a cutting table and a chalk.
The first step is to get your measurement ready. let us take my measurement for an instance. You need the waist measurement, hip measurement and the length.
Usually the distance from the waist measurement to the hip measurement is usually 5-6 inches from age 15-20(this is just an hint to ease the stress when working on the piece).
~MY MEASUREMENT
#WAIST~~28
#HIP~~35
#LENGTH~~22. Lets take the length as an instance making a short skirt.
After this is done, the division of the measurement begins. The waist and hip will be divided by 4 inches, making them 7 inches and 8.75(9) inches respectively. 2 inches will be added to the length measurement to make it 24 inches.
~Now you get your cloths,
~Fold it into four parts making two folded part 2 inches greater than the other two parts,
~The 2 inches greater is for the zip allowance and it is called the back,
~Place your measuring tape from the back and measure 7 inches(the actual measurement) and 9 inches adding 2 inches for the sewing(still on the same line),
~Measure 5 inches from the waist to where it stops, draw a line with your ruler(that is where the hip measurement starts),
~Remember we using my measurement. So you measure 9 inches on the hip line adding 2 inches for the sewing allowance,
~Measure the length and the add 1 inch for the folds,
~Use your ruler to make a straight line, then join with your chalk all the lines you have made, cut out following the lines you join and u have a simple shaped skirt that you want. Looking like this!
I hope you like it. I will be teaching you to make the skater skirt tomorrow.
SEE YOU THERE!
THANKS FOR READING!
#lennahsmindspace.
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